If you've had enough of the endless sponsored posts on your Instagram account,
the glut of handsome young white men selling brands they've
never used on YouTube, then we've got bad news. Influencers are just getting
started.
It may be a surprise. People have confidently predicted the
death of the influencer since he first appeared pouting on his phone screen,
citing things like fake followers or inauthenticity. It did not happen. They
are born, they find new platforms, new ways to reach their audience and new
ways to shape the marketing budgets of the big brands.
"This is just the commencement,"
says Brittany
Hennessy, Co-founder of Carbon and author of Influencer: Building Your Personal
Brand In The Age Of Social Media. "[Influencer marketing is] basically the
digital version of word of mouth." As new social platforms strengthen old
media as a place of inspiration and information, brands are looking for new
ways to connect with customers. "Influencers will only get better at
creating engaging content and brands will spend more money than ever."
It is not a coincidence that influencers have risen while
print has collapsed.
Brands have always desired
a way to expose you, the shopper, to their clothing. Back in the days when
fashion magazines were the only way to stay on top of trends, it was a
complicated dance where brands paid for ad space and fashion editors
prioritized their clothes on shows. Now they pay influencers to dress up and
post the photos on Instagram. A much more polished relationship on both sides
of the curtain.
Brands love influencers too because it's easier to see
where their money is going.
"Usually they
want their marketing to translate into sales," says Amy Odell, former
editor-in-chief of Cosmopolitan.com and a columnist for Business of Fashion. It
has always been difficult to know if a magazine cover ad leads to a store sale.
“But it's so much easier to track influencers' sales because they can use
[trackable links] and things like that. "
Also works. According to research by major search engines
from social analytics firm Klear,
96% of American fashion brands have an influencer marketing
program and the industry has helped drive growth for the Daniel Wellington
watch brand and from a glut of fast fashion brands. From Boohoo to I Saw It
First, who are launching new collections thanks to encounters with Instagram
celebrities.
Pitti uomo
While there are a handful of prominent male influencers, the
market as a whole is poor on Y chromosomes. According to Klear, more than 80%
of Instagram posts tagged with #ad in 2017 were posted by women. (And, like
everything in vogue, the most influential are largely young, slim, and white.)
The number of sponsored posts also increased by 198% between 2016 and 2017, as
the smallest brands followed the largest.
This could also be attributed in part to new rules from
the Federal Trade Commission (FTC),
which called for new levels of transparency. As of September
2017, the FTC required that all paid messages be clearly labeled (most often
with #ad or #sponsored). At the same time, Instagram introduced its "Paid
Partnership" feature, which clearly indicates any business connections.
Some believed it would hurt the influencer market; Part of
its appeal to brands, at least initially, was that paid posts were often indistinguishable
from an influencer's daily content. But it seems that the opposite may be true.
"Your audiences know [that posts are paid for]," says Odell.
"People want transparency, but I don't think they care because they want
to consume this content and they can't have this content if the person doesn't
get those referrals." It's another big change from the way old media
worked, and yet another reason for brands to double their influencer budgets.
Pitti uomo
Some influencers who are not really influential even falsify associations to improve their profile. "Ordinary people on Instagram claim to have brand deals, with established companies, that don't exist," says Chris Stokel-Walker, journalist and author.