Blame Instagram, blame the fast-paced fashion cycle, but it
seems our subcultures don't seem to last that long anymore. As we say goodbye
to the post-Soviets, coming and going in less time than it took to dismantle
the Berlin Wall, we welcome six new glances to bite into right now.
Immersing themselves in the spirit of the age, these style
tribes not only dominate your Instagram feed, they make designers go crazy. His
looks infiltrate both luxury collections and those on the street. They're all
over pop culture, and they're likely to find their way into your wardrobe one
way or another soon.
AMETORA
What is it? As detailed in the excellent book of the same
name by W David Marx, "Ametora" is the Japanese contraction of
"American Traditional". Initially, this meant the Ivy League style
that Japanese teens adopted in the 1960s, but now it includes all the American
classic that was first copied in Japan, then improved upon, and then perfected.
With Hawaiian shirts in vogue last summer, this is an evolution of that
mid-century aesthetic, referenced in the spring of next year by major brands.
Ametora Fashion
HOW TO USE IT
Ametora is how Japanese designers recreate American style in
their own way, from jeans to bikers to even hip-hop. But the most obvious path
in style is the handmade overhaul of things like denim, workwear, unstructured
blazers, and knits. "Stick with a classic color palette of neutral tan,
dark brown and navy blue, introducing the color through patterned shirts, ties
and scarves," says stylist Toby Standing of custom men's clothing store Thread.
Mix up your textures and definitely invest in some loose selvedge jeans.
KEY BRANDS
Selected stores in Japan were the first to embrace the
American style, and Beams remains a stronghold for Ametora. When it comes to
denim, perhaps no brand cares more - or costs more - than Visvim, which makes
western-inspired jeans feel more authentic than the real thing. If you're into
the Ivy League style more, then the Ring Jacket from Osaka has been there from
the beginning.
The best clothes for men Ametora
ADULT SKATING
The guys who championed skate wear in the mid-90s are now
approaching their forties. At least. So it's time to grow up without changing
your identity. Perhaps in reaction to all those hype-driven streetwear brands,
the new generation (which is actually the older generation) is creating
prep-influenced clothing that you could wear for a short mini ramp session on
the way to the street. dinner at your leisure.
Skate clothing for adults
HOW TO USE IT
No logos from head to toe. "The shape is the key
element here," says Standing. In this more mature world, there's no reason
why the timeless Dickies baggy skater uniform and hoodie can't be completed
with a soft-shouldered jacket or chunky fabric.
KEY BRANDS
Skating well is no longer the first thing outside of Palace.
For one thing, all of these logos are starting to look a bit fake. Instead,
look at older faces, like Brendon Babenzien, who left his job as Supreme's
creative director to found Noah, which offers baggy cuts alongside its hoodies,
and Aprix, which makes skate shoes stylish. New York-based brand Aimé Leon Dore
is also putting a stylish spin on adult streetwear (think rugby jerseys and
cable knit cardigans), while Awake NY brings you age-appropriate graphic
prints.
How to wear skate clothes
WAR CENTER
Depending on his level of cynicism, this man in the
barricade-inspired trend are designers who reflect a collapsing society or the
worst form of exploitation. Think tactical vests, buckle belts borrowed from
gunboats, and in one case, a true riot shield. Now, that will help the fall
day.
Basic trend of war fashion.
HOW TO USE IT
Going all the way in your basic war look can quickly start
to feel a bit primed. So apply military touches lightly. "It's mostly
about technical and tactical elements that fit into everyday clothing,"
says Standing. Shoulder bags and mesh vests are the most obvious ways, but
anything that's shatter-proof or covered